Fall, Best time to Fertilize

· July 12, 2010 · 8:20 pm · Lawn care

Common questions concerning fertilization are: What exactly is in fertilizer? What brands should we use? When to use it? Why it works? What are the proce-dures? In this article, you’ll find out why this process is incredibly beneficial to your trees.

Fall

What does going to the dentist every six months to clean your teeth accomplish? Keeps cavities away. What does visiting your doctor once a year accomplish? It keeps you attuned to your body’s strengths and weak-ness. What does eating an apple a day accomplish? I don’t know. But fertilizing your trees after November, when they begin dormancy, is extremely beneficial in preserving and main-taining the trees’ health and beauty. Tree roots are grow-ing any time the ground temperature is above forty de-grees, which is most of the time in the middle Tennessee area.
Truth is, fertilizer is not food for your trees. Trees make their own food independently, by absorbing sunlight and making starches and sugar from the car-bon dioxide, water and a combina-tion of nutrients from the soil. Trees are always eating something, and it’s called sunshine! Nutri-ents do play a very important role in this process, as sixteen nutrients are needed for a tree to grow and be healthy. If there is a lack in any of these nutrients, the tree falters and weakens. This imbalance is more common in urban areas where recent or past soil disturbance has occurred.
Deep root fertilization will promote a greater amount of foliage in the coming year. When it is injected into the root zone of the tree, it helps loosen soil and increase oxygen transfer. Fall fertilization is very good for the trees that have taken a toll throughout the year from insects and environmental damages (heavy turf, compacted roots, or construction). The basic life-altering motto we have to keep in mind for our property is the same as for our bodies: “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”!

By: Kaitlin Jones

The Healthy Sweet

· July 12, 2010 · 8:18 pm · Misc.

What do most folks commonly know about honey? It’s sweet, sticky, and the life source that keeps Winnie the Pooh alive. Some people use it for baking and on biscuits. But, oh, there’s so much more!
And regarding the long range health benefits, recent science has proclaimed honey is now wildly considered nature’s perfect food!
Honey has natural sugars that our body needs in order to create energy. Honey eaten before exercise is digested and released into the blood flow at a steady rate not being exhausted too quickly as other commercial sport supplements’ sugars might. Even during post-workouts, honey promotes muscle recuperation and glycogen restoration. It also contains minerals, vita-mins, anti-oxidants, amino acids, and enzymes that can help with digestion! Antioxidants pro-tect our skin from the damage of UV rays and aid in skin rejuvenation. Honey is also sweeter than table sugar and makes baking more fragrant and tasty. And as storage of honey at room temperature will not result in spoilage, stocking it anywhere in the kitchen is convenient. This is possible because the high sugar concentrate kills bacteria and air born yeasts, allowing no germs to live in honey for more than 24 hours, making it one of the most clean foods one can eat.
Tupelo, clover, and orange blossom honeys are the most famous, though there are countless others to choose from. Light-colored honey is usually milder in flavor, while the darker honeys usually possess a bolder taste. Also, make sure to buy unfiltered, uncooked, and 100% pure honey from a local distributor if available. As a son of a beekeeper, rarely does a day go by that I don’t consume honey on something, and it’s always in my coffee. Honey is good on just about anything. Chances are anything that tastes good to you now will improve with honey on it. So, take your honey some honey and enjoy!
- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - -
Makes eight 8 oz. servings
Calories 60
Sugar 16g.
Sodium 77mg. Carbohydrate 17g.
Potassium 85mg.
-1/4 cup honey -1/2 teaspoon light salt -1 package unsweetened soft drink mix (similar to Kool-Aid® packets) -7-1/2 cups water

Ruel Jones

The Benefits of Trees!

· July 12, 2010 · 8:15 pm · Tree care

Wow, the Benefits of Trees!
A Tree Can Grow To:
 Manufacture five pounds of pure oxygen per day
 Consume carbon dioxide to fight the “greenhouse effect” that threatens our survival
 Provide the cooling equivalent of 10 room-size air conditioning units
A Tree, Over a 50-year Period, Will:
 Generate $31,250 worth of oxygen
 Provide $62,000 worth of air pollution control
 Recycle $37,500 worth of water

Wow, the Benefits of Trees!A Tree Can Grow To: Manufacture five pounds of pure oxygen per day Consume carbon dioxide to fight the “greenhouse effect” that threatens our survival Provide the cooling equivalent of 10 room-size air conditioning unitsA Tree, Over a 50-year Period, Will: Generate $31,250 worth of oxygen Provide $62,000 worth of air pollution control Recycle $37,500 worth of water

On the Lighter Side

· July 12, 2010 · 8:10 pm · Misc.

As we all resolve to make resolutions for the New Year, it seems starting an exercise program comes to mind. The following are some important reasons to exercise:
1. It is well documented that for every minute you exercise, you add one minute to your life. That enables you at 85 years old to spend 5 additional months in a nursing home at $5,000 per month.
2. My grandmother started walking five miles a day when she was 60. Now she’s 97 years old and we don’t know where she is.
3. I joined a health club last year, spent about $400 bucks. Haven’t lost a pound. Apparently you have to show up.
4. I have to exercise early in the morning before my brain figures out what I’m doing.
5. I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me.
6. I have flabby thighs, but fortunately my stomach covers them.
7. The advantage of exercising every day is that you die healthier.
8. If you are going to try cross country skiing, start with a small country.
Seriously, we should all get some type of exercise several times a week—and not just the remote working our fingers. In addition, we need to stay pumped up on all those wonderful vitamins that keep us healthy during this germ-infested season. Make sure you’re getting enough!
There are 13 widely recognized vitamins. Vitamins A, D, E, and K can be stored in body fat and don’t have to be consumed every day.
Vitamins B & C, on the other hand, are flushed out of your system each day and therefore must be consumed on a daily basis. The best way of getting what you need is by eating a balanced diet composed largely of fresh or frozen foods. Canned foods may lose up to half their vitamins during processing.
Here are some roles each vitamin plays:
Vitamin A—Needed for healthy skin and hair, bone growth, tooth development, and reproduction.
Vitamin D—Helps your body absorb calcium and phosphorus; essential for formation of bones and teeth.
Vitamin K—Aids in blood clotting; helps maintain normal bone metabolism.
B Vitamins—Regulate the central nervous system; help release energy from carbohydrates, proteins, and fats; aid formation of red blood cells.
Vitamin C—Key for white blood cell and immune system building, tissue growth, and healing.■

Tree Myths

· July 12, 2010 · 8:04 pm · Tree care

Myth #1 – “Lots of Mulch is Good.”
TRUTH: Mulch is too thick when roots start growing into it. When this occurs, several continuous hot dry days can lead to root death. Start by applying 3 to 4 inches and inspect several times a year for root growth. Keep mulch at least 6 inches away from the trunk to reduce chances of rodent injury and infec-tion by pathogens. Excessive amounts may disrupt soil moisture and aeration.
Myth #2 – “Professionals Know Not to Plant Large-Maturing Trees Close to Buildings.”
TRUTH: They may know this is wrong, but it is done often. Blue spruce, paper birch, and many species of pines are used often for foundation plantings. The mature size of the tree seems to be forgotten at the time of planting. Too often the annuals are in the middle of the yard and the trees are against the house.
Myth #3 – “Fill Holes With Concrete, or Fill With Wound Dressing.”
TRUTH: Concrete or wound dressings lead to greater internal injury.
Myth #4 – “Ants Speed Up the Decay Process.”
TRUTH: Ants keep their galleries very clean and in doing so they slow the decay process. Ants live in the tree and eat elsewhere. Termites ―eat‖ in the tree and live elsewhere.
Myth #5 – “Topping Does Not Injure Trees.”
TRUTH: Topping not only injures wood in the crown, but roots are injured. And, topping leads to haz-ardous trees. Topping is a money wasting treatment illegal in some counties in some states because once started, it must be continued. Some species of trees can survive the treatment, while others quickly de-cline. Topping destroys a trees dignity.■

Dr. Alex L. Shigo

You Make it All Worthwhile

· July 12, 2010 · 8:02 pm · Lawn care, Misc., Tree care

I‘ve worked for some of Nashville‘s tree companies over the years. I‘ve never been involved with a clientele cut from the same cloth as the patrons of Quality Tree Surgery. I‘m almost always greeted with a smile. I hear friendly voices on the phone even at such odd hours as seven in the morning when I‘m calling to let you know that I‘m on the way to make an unscrupulous amount of noise outside your windows with my chipper and my crew‘s chainsaws. It makes all the difference in the world to my crew when they are treated with respect. Let‘s face it, tree climbers aren‘t usually thought of as the most intelligent group of people on the planet. We‘re used to getting dirty for a living and being treated like ditch diggers when we come into contact with the general public. There‘s absolutely nothing ―general‖ about you people. I‘m not just saying this to stay within your good graces. I truly mean it. Some of you have gotten to know me quite well. Some of you even actually read my articles in our quarterly. So, this time, I take great pleasure in taking the time to sit and write a short note to all of you. Ruel Jones told me once: ―This is a people business Jason. The trees aren‘t ever going to pick up the phone and call us.‖ Thank you for caring about your trees. More importantly, thank you for caring about us. No act of kindness goes unnoticed. No kind word is left unheard. You are all the finest people a man could hope to work with. May this new year be the best one you‘ve ever experienced.
-One of your ―Tree Men‖■

Jason Kenney

An Ounce of Prevention

· July 12, 2010 · 6:22 pm · Tree care

It‘s the clashing of hot and cold air that cause all the problems; that‘s why it‘s the spring and summer we should look out for, with only the occasional winter storm.‘ Speaking of which, there have only been a few in the last 20 years I’ve been in business, with only one being worth mentioning—the ice storm of 1994—what a nightmare!  It‘s the spring and summer months that 95% of our calls related to damaged trees and property come in— and four out of five trees that we go clean up and remove off a house, car, drive and/or yard were really not the storms fault anyway,they were problems waiting to happen.  That‘s right.  I go out and look at that beautiful tree split in half and think how sad it is that I didn’t get to see it before it fell apart. Given the opportunity, I could have informed the owner that with some cable bracing and/or proper pruning this tree would have been fine and the homeowner would still have a shade tree and the money; now they have neither.  A large portion of these lost trees are simple problems like a multi-stem trunk with sharply angled forks and most are reasonably easy to protect.In other cases, I see uprooted trees with mushrooms around the base and others with conks and/or cavities up the main frame and say to myself, ―how did it make it this long?  What I‘m encouraging is that you take a few minutes and walk through the yard and look at your trees; they don‘t have to have leaves to determine these most common problems. As a matter of fact, a fully foliated tree has no reflection on how safe it is.Look for the following: Sharp angled forks in the low and mid-area trunk section. This is our number one problem.  Mushrooms on the ground within 6 ft. of the base or on the trunk and stems. Old injuries anywhere on the tree – and of course if it hasn’t had any leaves on it in the last few growing seasons – this could be a problem too.  The structure is what counts.  Buttress rot, crotch-rot, and sharp angled forks are always bad news.  There are many other factors that play a role in inspections although these are the biggies.  Still yet, remember: anything that stands has the ability to fall.  There‘s no way to truly state that a tree will not fail under some unforeseen condition, although with an understanding of why they fail, it allows us to prevent many tree casualties. No need to wait until you get spring fever.  Do the ounce of prevention now during winter– it‘s better for you, the trees, and us.■

Why Aerating is Overrated

· July 12, 2010 · 6:17 pm · Tree care

Aerating and overseeding is a very important part of the lawn maintenance process. One reason it is so necessary is because it replenishes the grass we lose during the hot summer months. We lose fescue in the summer because of the heat stress as well as a lack of rain. So in order to have that nice full lawn aerating and seeding should be done at a minimum of every other year.
Another reason aerating and seeding is so important is because it relieves soil compac-tion. After your lawn has been subjected to heavy equipment during the mowing season, the roots begin to starve for oxygen. Aerating helps your lawn regain this lost oxygen to the roots by pulling plugs out of the soil.
Aerating also speeds up thatch breakdown. I personally love aerating and seeding because there is nothing more pleasing to the eye than to pull up at a house and see a beautifully manicured lawn

When Lighting Strikes

· July 12, 2010 · 6:13 pm · Tree care

Most people I talk to have a fear of the awesome force we call lightning. When I visit homes with storm damage, lightning is blamed by the homeowner when in fact wind damages most trees during thunderstorms.
It is estimated that lighting strikes the Earth 9 million times a day -100 times per second. It is no wonder that trees can be damaged by lightning, but what is lightning anyway?
The electric charges that generate lightning are formed in large, very, very tall storm clouds. Negative charged particles collect at the base of the cloud. Since the Earth herself is positively charged the two forces fight to find a way to connect and cancel out by following the path of least resistance. Many times the tall tree out in the yard is that path of least resistance. An acting terminal if you will.
The voltage carried by a lightning strike averages 100 million volts and 500 amps. This is an awesome amount of energy! Trees are damaged because the living tissues of the tree serve as pathways for the surging energy. Moisture is instantly converted to steam which is why the bark of a struck tree appears to have been blown off.
Most serious is damage done to the root system as the charge grounds out.
Trees can be protected from lightning damage by installing lightning protection systems in them. Lightning protection systems do not attract lightning! I like to think of it as the ground (positive charges) is brought up to the top of the tree! The negative charges released from the storm are allowed to cancel out with the positive ones well above the tree leaving the tree out of it all.
Lighting systems are all copper – with air terminals connected to woven copper wire. The system is connected to grounding rods driven deep into the Earth to create a good ground. Trees which should be considered for lightning protection are those within 25 feet of a building, historic, rare and specimen trees.
Trees struck by lightning do not always die. They should be evaluated and monitored over time. Fertilization and watering are important. Insect pests such as ambrosia beetles must not be allowed to colonize these trees. Many trees will recover but could develop structural defects when exposed areas begin to decay. I have seen many a warrior Oak still standing tall and proud with old lighting stripes running down to the ground. ■
Larry Loiseau / Certified Arborist

New Standards on Line Clearing

· July 12, 2010 · 6:05 pm · Tree care

NES tree pruning policy—My goodness . . what a stir up that group of people are in! We have lopsided, off balance, center sections and corners cut out of trees all over town and how unsightly they can look. I am writing this article in efforts to help with the understanding of how a tree operates.
First of all, understand that a tree is like a big corporation or company. The main stem of the tree is the core of the company and there are mass branches of employees under and above ground. The upper employees (leaves) support the underground force (roots) with starches and sugars. The roots give the leaves water and nutrients and the overspill of this symbiotic relationship is what the tree uses for cell division/growth and storage for hard times. Understanding that a great loss of employees from either side of this company will result in death of employees on the other end. This is why we see tops of trees decline after major root loss. We are unable to see the loss of workforce underground.
Hold that thought! The more leaves a tree loses the more roots underground die from starvation, thus putting stress on the whole company. Now, think back to the practice in which trees were trimmed here in Nashville ever since the first electric wire hit the top of a pole. They’d come in and real nicely round over the whole top of the tree stripping it of virtually every employee it had.
The type of trimming they used to do made trees more dangerous if they survived. That type of trimming practice also starts a whole downward spiral of: decaying wood, root loss, weakly attached limbs and several other situations that come back to haunt the tree and tree owner over time.
Had our trees been pruned under the new policy as they grew up, we would have a completely different view. It was not understood that topping was so wrong. Shaping and balancing to please the eye is the last concern of a tree. The tree is most concerned about how many employees it gets to keep as a result of our wanting lights, hot water, and a TV to watch.  Change is hard for all of us, although I’m sure glad our medical doctors have adapted to new methods over the last 50 years. It would scare me to death if my doctor didn’t change practice according to new technology and education in the field of medicine.■
Ruel Jones

Safe at Sixty Feet

· July 12, 2010 · 5:58 pm · Lawn care, Tree care

Over the past years, I’ve worked with quite a few of Nashville’s tree companies. Through tenacity, I finally got hired by Quality Tree Inc. One of my main concerns with past companies was their lack of any type of safety program. Let’s face it, climbing sixty feet off the ground on a half inch diameter rope and operating a chainsaw at a distance no greater than arms length from that rope is not a natural act. Quality Tree has a safety program that not only protects my coworkers and I, but our customers as well.  I can still remember sitting in study hall during high school saying to myself “I’ll never use ANY of this stuff later in life!” One day, about two years ago, I found myself at the top of a Sugar Maple over someone’s house and patio contemplating the stress of the rigging, the angle of my rope, and how to explain my actions to my ground man who spoke no English at all. To perform tree care successfully, a climber needs to have a working knowledge of tree biology, physics, geometry and sometimes even Spanish. Quality Tree has a safety program that meets every other week. During these meetings we discuss topics such as tree physiology, rigging techniques, chainsaw operations and even how to back down the driveway without slaying the home owner’s garden gnomes. Every Quality Tree employee’s financial status is adjusted according to what they are willing to learn. How does this benefit the customer? To begin with, you’re guaranteed that the person performing the work on your living investment is a highly trained and proficient arborist. This dramatically reduces the risk of damage to the tree or your property. Where the rubber truly meets the road on this topic is when storm damage occurs or other more hazardous tasks present themselves. I’ve seen quite a few tree companies driving around town passionately declaring that they are “fully insured for your protection.” We insure ourselves here at Quality Tree as well. However, we do take it a step further. We seek the knowledge and training it takes to prevent the accident from happening in the first place.■
Jason Kenney

So what time of year should I plant?

· July 12, 2010 · 5:46 pm · Lawn care

How many of you have heard this statement: “Fall is a good time for planting trees and shrubs.” Ever wonder why? Let’s discuss a few of the most common reasons the Nursery Industry recommends the fall season for planting.  The main benefit to fall/winter planting is that container and ball-and-burlapped plants are less stressed when transplanted during cool, moist weather. The shorter days of these months also trigger plants to slow down and terminate bud growth. During this time the metabolic processes of the plant slow down and the plant goes into a dormant state above ground. That’s right, above ground! What about below ground? Below ground the roots are taking on a more important role and becoming the plant’s main focus. Root growth continues to take place below ground, even though the shoot and leaf production has ceased above ground. This continued root growth is another reason for transplanting plants during the fall and winter months. Most people assume that because deciduous trees and shrubs lose their leaves that they are in a complete dormant state. Not true! A plant’s roots can still actively grow year round. How is this possible when it is so cold outside? We first need to understand that soil temperatures tend to lag behind air temperatures. The soil is holding heat that has been building up during spring and summer. So even though we may feel the chilly air temps outside, the soil around the plant is nice and warm. The plant roots are still growing and storing energy for the upcoming spring workload. Plants transplanted during the fall/winter months require less time and care. A thorough watering after planting is all the water plants will require until shoot growth appears in the Spring. Placing a blanket of mulch 2 to 4 inches in depth around your plants will also help keep the roots warmer and more productive during the cooler weather. Use good mulching materials such as shredded pine bark, bark chips, or pine needles. Be sure to keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk of the plant. These two simple steps are all the plant care required until spring arrives.  So what time of the year should you plant? Anytime in our area is good for planting as the soil temperatures rarely dip below levels for root growth; however, as we have seen, plants are stressed less and the plant caretakers have fewer duties to perform when plants are installed during the fall/ winter months. This is a GREAT time for planting balland- burlapped and containerized trees and shrubs!■

How many of you have heardthis statement: “Fall is a goodtime for planting trees andshrubs.” Ever wonder why?Let’s discuss a few of the mostcommon reasons the NurseryIndustry recommends the fallseason for planting.The main benefit to fall/winterplanting is that container andball-and-burlapped plants areless stressed when transplantedduring cool, moist weather.The shorter days of thesemonths also trigger plants toslow down and terminate budgrowth. During this time themetabolic processes of theplant slow down and the plantgoes into a dormant stateabove ground. That’s right,above ground! What aboutbelow ground?Below ground the roots aretaking on a more importantrole and becoming the plant’smain focus. Root growth continuesto take place belowground, even though the shootand leaf production has ceasedabove ground. This continuedroot growth is another reasonfor transplanting plants duringthe fall and winter months.Most people assume that becausedeciduous trees andshrubs lose their leaves thatthey are in a complete dormantstate. Not true! A plant’sroots can still actively growyear round. How is this possiblewhen it is so cold outside?We first need to understandthat soil temperatures tend tolag behind air temperatures.The soil is holding heat thathas been building up duringspring and summer. So eventhough we may feel the chillyair temps outside, the soilaround the plant is nice andwarm. The plant roots are stillgrowing and storing energy forthe upcoming spring workload.Plants transplanted during thefall/winter months require lesstime and care. A thoroughwatering after planting is allthe water plants will requireuntil shoot growth appears inthe Spring. Placing a blanketof mulch 2 to 4 inches indepth around your plants willalso help keep the rootswarmer and more productiveduring the cooler weather.Use good mulching materialssuch as shredded pine bark,bark chips, or pine needles. Besure to keep the mulch a fewinches away from the trunk ofthe plant. These two simplesteps are all the plant care requireduntil spring arrives.So what time of the yearshould you plant? Anytime inour area is good for planting asthe soil temperatures rarely dipbelow levels for root growth;however, as we have seen,plants are stressed less and theplant caretakers have fewerduties to perform when plantsare installed during the fall/winter months. This is a GREAT time for planting balland-burlapped and containerizedtrees and shrubs!■

Gary Claiborne

Trees Have $Value$

· July 12, 2010 · 5:30 pm · Lawn care, Tree care

Most people are aware that trees and other living plants are valuable. They provide beauty to our properties, manufacture oxygen, reduce rainfall runoff, provide sound barriers, and help us save energy by providing shade in the summer and wind reduction in theMost people are aware that trees and other living plants are valuable. They provide beauty to our properties, manufacture oxygen, reduce rainfall runoff, provide sound barriers, and help us save energy by providing shade in the summer and wind reduction in thewinter. In addition, trees and other landscape plants are a part of the property that have a dollar value that can be measured bycompetent plant appraisers.  Trees and plants in the landscape may constitute as much as 20% of the total value of your property.If you have trees or shrubs that have been damaged or destroyed, you may be able to recapture your loss through insurance claims,litigation, or as a deduction from your income tax. The extent of damage and how the damage occurred will determine which avenues areavailable to you to recapture the lost value. If you have a portion of your property condemned for right of ways, utility easements orother condemnation proceedings, the value of any trees and shrubs on that portion of your property should be considered indetermining your compensation for the loss of that property. There are four factors that should be taken into account for a professionalevaluation of the value of trees and shrubs. These factors are size, classification (specie), condition and location within the landscape.All these factors can be measured to determine in dollars and cents the value of trees and shrubs, whether for insurance purposes,court testimony in lawsuits, or for tax deductions. These are steps to be taken that will enhance the value of your trees and preventfinancial loss if they should be damaged or destroyed:

1. Plan your landscaping for both beauty and functional value.
2. Protect and preserve to maintain the value.
3. Periodically take pictures of trees and other landscape plants. This will make “before and after” comparisons easier and will expedite the process of insurance or IRS claims should you have a loss.
4. Check your insurance to see what type claims are covered.
5. Keep accurate records of landscape or real estate appraisals for any losses.
6. Consult a competent consulting arborist at every stage in the life of your landscape – planning, planting, care, and to make sure you do not
suffer needless financial loss when a casualty strikes.
Information in this article was taken from the brochure, Tree Values, available from the International Society of Arboriculture.■
Kim Kross

Got Chips? We Do

· July 12, 2010 · 4:44 pm · Lawn care, Tree care

GOT CHIPS? WE DO ~ And we deliver for FREE!  How about some chips?  They make greatmulch for play areas, paths through gardens, or even heavilyshaded areas where grass won’t grow. Some of our customerslet them set for a year or so and use the compost for enrichingthe soil of their plantings and vegetable gardens. It’s a greatproduct that we deliver for free. All you need is a place for thissize truck to back in and unload.

ASK ABOUT FREE LOGS FOR FIREWOOD!

The Meaning behind the Phrase

· July 12, 2010 · 4:41 pm · Misc.

The Meaning Behind the Phrase . . . . .
Rule of Thumb:
Way back when before there were thermometers, brewers would use their thumb or finger to check the heat. If it was too cold, the yeast wouldn’t grow; if it was too hot, the yeast would die. The thumb in the brew is where we get the phrase, “rule of thumb.”
The Whole 9 Yards:
Comes from World War II fighter pilots in the Pacific. When loading their planes with ammo, the .50 caliber machine gun belts were 27 ft. long before loading them in the fuselage. If the pilot fired all their ammo at one target, it got “the whole nine yards.”

The Meaning Behind the Phrase . . . . .Rule of Thumb:Way back when before there were thermometers, brewers would use their thumb or finger to check the heat. If it was too cold, the yeast wouldn’t grow; if it was too hot, the yeast would die. The thumb in the brew is where we get the phrase, “rule of thumb.”The Whole 9 Yards:Comes from World War II fighter pilots in the Pacific. When loading their planes with ammo, the .50 caliber machine gun belts were 27 ft. long before loading them in the fuselage. If the pilot fired all their ammo at one target, it got “the whole nine yards.”

Old Soldiers and their Memorials

· July 12, 2010 · 4:21 pm · Misc., Tree care

Old Soldiers and their Memorials Jason Kenney
Have you ever listened to a tree guy talk? Ever notice how they refer to trees with statements like “Look at that big guy!” or “Wow, she’s a beauty!” or even one of my favorites “Look at that old soldier?” Once you’ve spent enough time in the trees, you begin to realize that they have their own unique “personality” traits. Trees have a story to tell us, if we’re just willing to listen to them.
Trees are living fossils, living history. Ever looked at a tree stump to count the rings? Those rings are the trees biog-raphy as well as a history of weather patterns the trees has endured. Scientists are cur-rently using satellite imagery to find the remaining virgin forests and taking core sam-ples of the trees in these re-gions to tell the history of our weather patterns. You can tell by the width of a tree’s growth ring whether or not there was adequate rainfall or a drought. The wider the ring, the greater the living
conditions were for that tree. The smaller the ring, the more harsh the living conditions were for that tree. These cen-turies old trees are providing us with a more complete his-tory about rainfall cycles and what we may expect from our weather in the future.
So, how does this pertain to you? You can use trees to commemorate things in your life. Plant a tree with your children or grandchildren. Watch the tree grow as they grow. It’s a great way to teach children the benefits of stewardship. As a father of three, I’ve planted a tree with each of my children and thor-oughly enjoy watching them experience the pride of having a permanent effect on their world. I smile when I find them smelling blossoms, plac-ing G.I. Joe in the branches like their crazy father or see-ing a bird nest for the first time in their tree.
Trees also make a great me-morial for loved ones. My
children play and swing be-neath the outstretched arms of a large Oak that carries the same looming shadow as did my Great Uncle Tommy who fought for his country during World War II. As an arborist and an American, I am plant-ing a Sawtooth Oak in honor of our brave soldiers who fought and are still fighting in the current war with Iraq. I’m looking into having some signs made to mark them so that one day, long after I’m gone, someone gazes up through their canopy and re-members what some great men and women endured. Maybe, just maybe, they’ll think about what they can do to honor their world in the same manner that these living giants and the people they were planted in remembrance of have done. I for one can only hope that I’ve made an impact on people’s life as large as the trees have made on mine.■

Old Soldiers and their Memorials Jason KenneyLearnfrom themistakes of others,You can never live long enough to make them all yourself.-AnonymousRuel Jones / President Mark Smith / Crew LeaderKim Cross / Consulting Arborist Jason Kenney / Crew LeaderISA Certified Arborists on StaffHave you ever listened to a tree guy talk? Ever notice how they refer to trees with statements like “Look at that big guy!” or “Wow, she’s a beauty!” or even one of my favorites “Look at that old soldier?” Once you’ve spent enough time in the trees, you begin to realize that they have their own unique “personality” traits. Trees have a story to tell us, if we’re just willing to listen to them.Trees are living fossils, living history. Ever looked at a tree stump to count the rings? Those rings are the trees biog-raphy as well as a history of weather patterns the trees has endured. Scientists are cur-rently using satellite imagery to find the remaining virgin forests and taking core sam-ples of the trees in these re-gions to tell the history of our weather patterns. You can tell by the width of a tree’s growth ring whether or not there was adequate rainfall or a drought. The wider the ring, the greater the livingconditions were for that tree. The smaller the ring, the more harsh the living conditions were for that tree. These cen-turies old trees are providing us with a more complete his-tory about rainfall cycles and what we may expect from our weather in the future.So, how does this pertain to you? You can use trees to commemorate things in your life. Plant a tree with your children or grandchildren. Watch the tree grow as they grow. It’s a great way to teach children the benefits of stewardship. As a father of three, I’ve planted a tree with each of my children and thor-oughly enjoy watching them experience the pride of having a permanent effect on their world. I smile when I find them smelling blossoms, plac-ing G.I. Joe in the branches like their crazy father or see-ing a bird nest for the first time in their tree.Trees also make a great me-morial for loved ones. Mychildren play and swing be-neath the outstretched arms of a large Oak that carries the same looming shadow as did my Great Uncle Tommy who fought for his country during World War II. As an arborist and an American, I am plant-ing a Sawtooth Oak in honor of our brave soldiers who fought and are still fighting in the current war with Iraq. I’m looking into having some signs made to mark them so that one day, long after I’m gone, someone gazes up through their canopy and re-members what some great men and women endured. Maybe, just maybe, they’ll think about what they can do to honor their world in the same manner that these living giants and the people they were planted in remembrance of have done. I for one can only hope that I’ve made an impact on people’s life as large as the trees have made on mine.■

Pest Alert

· July 12, 2010 · 4:13 pm · Lawn care, Pests, Tree care

Did you experience a clear sticky substance or black mold on your deck, lawn furniture or car last summer? If so, you may have been experiencing the symptoms of the Asian woolly hackberry aphid, Shivaphis celti. UT’s Insect and Disease Diagnostic Lab first re-ported this aphid in the southern counties of our state in the Summer of 2001. It has since moved into the middle TN area and was re-ported during the summer of 2002.
Hackberry, Celtis occidentalis and sugarberry, Celtis laevigata are the host plants for this aphid. The aphids are small, about 2-2.5 mm long and are conspicuous due to the large amount of bluish white wax secretion from their abdomen. See photo. The adults are winged and give the appearance of small pieces of cotton on the undersides of leaves.
Overwintering eggs hatch into females that, without fertilization, give birth to living fe-males. The ability of females to reproduce without mating is termed parthe-nogenesis. This ability allows young to be brought forth throughout the summer, account-ing for rapid increases in popula-tion. The largest populations usu-ally occur in late July or early Au-gust in our area. In late fall, sexual males and females are born. After mating, the female deposits over-wintering eggs, and the cycle con-tinues the following year.
During severe infestation the aphids excrete large amounts of honeydew, which coats the lower leaves and drips onto objects below the tree. The honeydew attracts ants, bees and other insects and serves as a medium for the growth of sooty mold fungus. In most cases little in-jury occurs to the trees; however, staining of wood, painted surfaces or fabric may occur from prolonged exposure to sooty mold.
Treatment is usually only warranted for trees in areas where staining of decks, lawn furni-ture or other valuable items may occur due to sooty mold colonizing honeydew. Prevention can be obtained by soil treatment or microin-jection from April to mid-June with a sys-temic insecticide such as imidicloprid. Reduc-tion of populations can be obtained by spray-ing small trees with a contact insecticide or microinjection of larger trees in August or September.
Kim Cross

25.00 Off Discount

· June 21, 2010 · 9:52 pm · Discounts/Coupons, Lawn care, Tree care, , , ,

Are Your Flowering Dogwoods Bored?

· December 19, 2009 · 11:02 am · Pests, Tree care, , , ,

No, Dogwoods don‟t get tired of looking at other trees and shrubs in your land-scape! I‟m talking about dogwood „borers,‟ Synanthedon scitula. These are the most destructive insect pests that attack flowering dogwood, Cornus florida in Ten-nessee. Wounded trees are the most vul-nerable since the larva gain access through wounds or scars. The adult is a clearwing moth that looks like a wasp. An early symptom is sloughing of loose bark from areas that have been attacked. More ad-vanced symptoms are crown dieback and adventitious shoot growth along the trunk and scaffold branches.
The adult moth is about 1/2” long and has a blue-black body with yellow bands and clear wings. It generally begins to emerge in late April to early May. The females lay eggs on or near wounds or in the crotches of scaffold branches. The larva feed on the cambium and remain in their tunnels throughout their develop-ment. The larva overwinters in the feed-ing tunnel and begins feeding again for a short time in the spring before pupating. There is usually only one generation per year.
The following measures can be taken to manage this pest:
1) Prune out and destroy infected branches.
2) Avoid unnecessary wounding, i.e., string trimmer damage to the base of the tree.
3) Preventive spray applications of per-metherin should be applied to the trunk, root collar and main branches during late April and mid-July.
4) Promote the vitality of the tree by maintaining soil fertility and applying water during dry periods.
Following this plant health care regime should give you many years of enjoyment from your flowering dogwoods.■

dogwood borerNo, Dogwoods don‟t get tired of looking at other trees and shrubs in your land-scape! I‟m talking about dogwood „borers,‟ Synanthedon scitula. These are the most destructive insect pests that attack flowering dogwood, Cornus florida in Ten-nessee. Wounded trees are the most vul-nerable since the larva gain access through wounds or scars. The adult is a clearwing moth that looks like a wasp. An early symptom is sloughing of loose bark from areas that have been attacked. More ad-vanced symptoms are crown dieback and adventitious shoot growth along the trunk and scaffold branches.

The adult moth is about 1/2” long and has a blue-black body with yellow bands and clear wings. It generally begins to emerge in late April to early May. The females lay eggs on or near wounds or in the crotches of scaffold branches. The larva feed on the cambium and remain in their tunnels throughout their develop-ment. The larva overwinters in the feed-ing tunnel and begins feeding again for a short time in the spring before pupating. There is usually only one generation per year.

dogwood borer2

The following measures can be taken to manage this pest:

1) Prune out and destroy infected branches.

2) Avoid unnecessary wounding, i.e., string trimmer damage to the base of the tree.

3) Preventive spray applications of per-metherin should be applied to the trunk, root collar and main branches during late April and mid-July.

4) Promote the vitality of the tree by maintaining soil fertility and applying water during dry periods.

Following this plant health care regime should give you many years of enjoyment from your flowering dogwoods.■

Kim Cross

dogwood borer1

What is Going on With My Lawn?

· December 19, 2009 · 10:54 am · Lawn care, , , ,

Even our most faithful turf management customers have problems with their lawns dur-ing this time of year. You may recognize some of the follow-ing most asked questions dur-ing July and August:
What are all those little brown dead looking circles all over my lawn?
There is a fungus among us—Brown Patch—and it‟s the reason for those little brown dead looking circles all over your lawn. This fungus thrives in steamy, moist environments that are brought about in our area by afternoon thunder-showers or supplemental wa-tering late in the day. This late afternoon rainfall/watering causes the fungus to spread like wildfire. Brown Patch can be treated both preventatively and curatively, but it is expen-sive and requires three applica-tions of fungicide.
Why is my lawn brown and dead looking?
The answer to this question is our harsh summer climate. Middle Tennessee is directly in the center of the area referred to as the transition zone. The transition zone refers to the northern most growing limits for warm season grasses, such as Bermuda and Zoysia, versus the southern most growing limits for cool season grasses, such as Tall Fescue and Ken-tucky Bluegrass. Most home-owners are objectionable to Bermuda grass and Zoysia be-cause they turn brown in the
early winter. Most homeown-ers choose Tall Fescue which is a cool season grass. By defi-nition a “cool season grass” is a turfgrass species adapted to favorable growth during cooler weather (60-75). Cool sea-son grasses may become dor-mant or injured during hot weather. In the dormant state, Tall Fescue looks brown and dead. The grass goes into sur-vival mode where the plant sacrifices shoot growth above ground and focuses all of its energy to maintain life in the root system below ground. Some of the grass will recover in the fall when the heat sub-sides, however a portion of the lawn will die each summer.
So what’s the magic solu-tion?
Unfortunately, there is no „magic solution.‟ However, you can lessen the problems by following these simple steps:
1) Replenish—(September/October) Overseed yearly to replace grass that died during the harsh summer months. Use the best possible Tall Fescue Seed Blend you can find—Not all Fescue is created equal! 2) Fertilize—Timing is critical! Too much nitrogen late in the season can make brown patch fungus worse. 3) Water—Regularly! Lawns need an average of 1″ per week to survive. Mornings are best. 4) Spray—To eliminate weeds
competing with your grass for nutrients and water, and to control diseases like Brown Patch.
Remember, Tall Fescue is the most popular choice because it will give you good results for three (Fall, Winter & Spring) of the four seasons. It will always struggle during our Summer months. This is simply the nature of our Middle Tennessee climate here in the transition zone.
Bottom line is if you are looking for a nice Fescue lawn, it is not an easy process with a one-time expense. It will require consistent care year after year and most importantly fall overseeding (September and October are ideal months for overseeding) to replinish the grass lost during the summer months.■

lawnhouse Even our most faithful turf management customers have problems with their lawns dur-ing this time of year. You may recognize some of the follow-ing most asked questions dur-ing July and August:

What are all those little brown dead looking circles all over my lawn?
There is a fungus among us—Brown Patch—and it‟s the reason for those little brown dead looking circles all over your lawn. This fungus thrives in steamy, moist environments that are brought about in our area by afternoon thunder-showers or supplemental wa-tering late in the day. This late afternoon rainfall/watering causes the fungus to spread like wildfire. Brown Patch can be treated both preventatively and curatively, but it is expen-sive and requires three applica-tions of fungicide.
Why is my lawn brown and dead looking?
The answer to this question is our harsh summer climate. Middle Tennessee is directly in the center of the area referred to as the transition zone. The transition zone refers to the northern most growing limits for warm season grasses, such as Bermuda and Zoysia, versus the southern most growing limits for cool season grasses, such as Tall Fescue and Ken-tucky Bluegrass. Most home-owners are objectionable to Bermuda grass and Zoysia be-cause they turn brown in the
early winter. Most homeown-ers choose Tall Fescue which is a cool season grass. By defi-nition a “cool season grass” is a turfgrass species adapted to favorable growth during cooler weather (60-75). Cool sea-son grasses may become dor-mant or injured during hot weather. In the dormant state, Tall Fescue looks brown and dead. The grass goes into sur-vival mode where the plant sacrifices shoot growth above ground and focuses all of its energy to maintain life in the root system below ground. Some of the grass will recover in the fall when the heat sub-sides, however a portion of the lawn will die each summer.
So what’s the magic solu-tion?
Unfortunately, there is no „magic solution.‟ However, you can lessen the problems by following these simple steps:
1) Replenish—(September/October) Overseed yearly to replace grass that died during the harsh summer months. Use the best possible Tall Fescue Seed Blend you can find—Not all Fescue is created equal! 2) Fertilize—Timing is critical! Too much nitrogen late in the season can make brown patch fungus worse. 3) Water—Regularly! Lawns need an average of 1″ per week to survive. Mornings are best. 4) Spray—To eliminate weeds
competing with your grass for nutrients and water, and to control diseases like Brown Patch.
Remember, Tall Fescue is the most popular choice because it will give you good results for three (Fall, Winter & Spring) of the four seasons. It will always struggle during our Summer months. This is simply the nature of our Middle Tennessee climate here in the transition zone.
Bottom line is if you are looking for a nice Fescue lawn, it is not an easy process with a one-time expense. It will require consistent care year after year and most importantly fall overseeding (September and October are ideal months for overseeding) to replinish the grass lost during the summer months.■
Gary Claiborne